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Wallpaper Removal for Orlando Homeowners

The short answer

Removal makes sense when wallpaper is peeling, dated, painted over or about to be replaced, because new paper or paint over old paper often fails. We test how the paper is bonded, remove it with the gentlest effective method, clean off adhesive, repair any damage and prime the wall for its next finish.

Old wallpaper rarely comes off the way people hope. Sometimes a strip peels away in one satisfying sheet; more often, the face separates and leaves a stubborn backing glued to the wall, or worse, the paper was hung on unprimed drywall decades ago and pulling it tears the drywall paper beneath. Specialist Wallpaper Installer removes wallpaper for homeowners in Orlando and nearby cities, including dated borders, multiple stacked layers and papers that previous owners painted over. This page explains when removal is the right step, how we strip and then prepare the wall, what our process looks like, what changes the cost and how to treat the bare wall afterward, whether you plan to paint or hang new paper.

When to take old wallpaper down

Covering over old wallpaper is tempting, but it is usually a short-term fix. New paste or paint can soak into the old paper, loosen it and produce bubbles or peeling seams. Removing it gives you a clean, stable surface.

Common reasons homeowners call us:

  • Seams are lifting or corners are curling, often in bathrooms and kitchens
  • Borders and patterns from an earlier decade no longer suit the home
  • A home purchase came with wallpaper in several rooms
  • Paper was painted over and the paint is now cracking or bubbling
  • Signs of moisture or mildew behind the paper after a wet summer
  • Preparing walls for new wallpaper or a fresh coat of paint

How we remove the paper and prepare the wall

We start with a test patch to learn what we are dealing with. Strippable papers often lift dry. Peelable papers leave a backing behind that needs soaking. Older papers on unprimed walls, or papers covered with paint, require scoring and patience.

For most jobs, we use warm water with a wallpaper remover solution or a steamer to soften the adhesive. We work in sections so the paper stays wet enough to release without soaking the drywall. Scraping is done with wide, flexible blades held at a low angle to avoid gouging.

Once the paper is off, we wash the walls to remove all adhesive residue. Leftover paste can cause paint to crackle or new paper to fail, so we check by touch: a slick, soapy feeling means more rinsing.

Then comes repair. Any torn drywall face paper gets sealed with an oil-based or shellac primer, then patched and sanded. Gouges and holes are filled. Finally we apply the right primer for the next finish, either a paint primer or a wallcovering primer.

The removal process, step by step

Each room follows roughly the same order, adjusted for what the test patch revealed.

  • Protect the room: floors get covered, outlets and switch plates come off, and electrical boxes are taped for safety around water.
  • Assess and measure: we measure each wall, check for multiple layers, note the paper type and look at the drywall condition.
  • Score if needed: on nonporous or painted papers, a scoring tool lets the solution penetrate.
  • Soak or steam: the adhesive is softened section by section.
  • Strip and scrape: paper and backing come off carefully.
  • Wash: adhesive residue is cleaned away and walls are rinsed.
  • Repair and sand: torn spots, holes and gouges are fixed.
  • Prime: walls are primed and ready for painting or new wallpaper, where we can then handle measuring, pattern matching, seams and trimming.

What affects the cost of wallpaper removal

Removal is quoted after we see the walls. The biggest variable is how the paper was hung. Paper on primed walls tends to release well; paper hung directly on raw drywall can bond tightly and takes far longer.

Paper type also matters. Vinyl-faced papers usually strip faster than thin papers. Grasscloth and fabric backings can be stubborn, and painted-over paper requires scoring and extra soaking. Multiple layers multiply the work.

Room size, ceiling height and features like stairwells, tall foyers or bathrooms with tight spaces around fixtures change the labor involved. The condition of the wall underneath determines how much repair follows.

Why a DIY strip often goes sideways

Plenty of homeowners start removal on their own and stop halfway through a wall. The usual trouble begins with pulling dry. Yanking the face off without softening the adhesive tends to leave the backing glued down and can lift the top layer of drywall paper with it, exposing the brown fibers underneath. Once that happens, every patch needs sealing before it can take paint.

Overwetting causes the opposite problem. Drenching a wall for long periods, or holding a steamer on one spot, can soften the gypsum core and make the surface crumble under a scraper. Water dripping behind baseboards or into outlet boxes is another hazard we take seriously.

Then there are the hidden surprises. Older homes sometimes have a second or third layer under the visible paper, a border glued straight onto a painted band, or paper hung over a glossy enamel that peels in strange ways. In bathrooms, a ring of mildew may appear at the base of the wall or around the tub once the paper is off, a sign that moisture was trapped there.

None of this means you cannot tackle it yourself, but it helps to know that a slow, section-by-section approach with the right blade angle almost always beats speed. If a wall is already half stripped and damaged, we can pick up from wherever you left off.

Caring for the wall after removal

Bare, primed walls should be painted or papered fairly soon. Keep the room cool and dry while you decide on the next finish, since humid air can slow drying of repairs.

If we found moisture or mildew during removal, have the cause investigated and fixed. Exterior block walls, window sills and areas near plumbing are the usual suspects, especially after storms during hurricane season.

Wallpaper Removal by city

What to expect

How a visit goes

  1. Honest prep advice

    If your wall has glossy paint, torn drywall facing or a lingering moisture problem, we say so before work starts and suggest the fix that makes sense for that surface.

  2. Patterns that line up

    We plot where the repeat falls at eye level and in corners, so the match holds across the whole room instead of drifting by the last strip.

  3. A tidy work area

    Drop cloths go down first, scraps leave with us, and paste residue is sponged off trim and ceilings before we call the job done.

FAQ

Common questions

Don’t see your question? Call (561) 944-3314 and we’ll talk it through.

Can you remove wallpaper that has been painted over?

Yes. It takes longer, since we have to score the paint so the solution can soak through, but it can usually be removed.

Will removing wallpaper damage my walls?

Some drywall damage is possible, especially if the paper was hung without primer. We repair any damage before priming.

Do you use chemicals for removal?

We mostly use warm water, a mild removal solution or steam, which is effective for most papers.

How long does wallpaper removal take?

A single room is often done in a day or two, depending on the paper, the number of layers and the repairs needed.

Can you install new wallpaper after removal?

Yes. We can remove the old paper, prepare the walls and hang the new covering as one project.

Is it worth removing wallpaper before selling a home?

Many sellers find that neutral, freshly painted walls appeal to more buyers, but it depends on the paper and the home.

Tell Us About Your Walls

Send a few photos and the room dimensions, mention the paper you have in mind, and we will reply with questions and next steps for a visit.

Request Service Call (561) 944-3314
Call (561) 944-3314 Request Service